The trashy motels and all night clubs from Berlin’s finest have crept onto the catwalks and become one of the key trends for Fall ’15. The revival of the new-wave ’80s signal the abundance of glamour and sequins, updated with a nonchalant attitude and effortless vibe. This season, Jonathan Anderson led the way with new-wave options of rainbow colour combos and oversized wraparounds that would do Grace Jones proud. Over at Balmain, power shoulders and pleated purple organza took us right back to the days of Madonna and Debbie Harris.
The catwalks were awash with influences from the East with crimson lace, coiling dragons and limitless threads of gold taking centre stage. Dries Van Noten displayed black bombers with woven metallic dragons on either side of the zipper, while Michael Kors went for a jaw-dropping floor-length gold dress that caught the attention of all. What with the MET Ball’s theme being ‘China: Through the Looking Glass’ which had the likes of Beyoncé and Rihanna wearing extravagant gowns of eastern influence, this is definitely a trend to remember.
Head To The Dark Side
The appeal of the bad girl has and will always be on-point — just look to MIA, Jennifer Lawrence, Angelina Jolie… the list goes on. Gothic rebels ruled the catwalks with neo-victorian drama at Alexander McQueen, haunting models wore velvet and leather at Giles and Maison Martin Margiela, while John Galliano showed head-to-toe lace and jet-black lips. It’s time to head to the dark side with dark on darker tones to add some edge to your wardrobe this Fall.
The ’70s look was strong in the Spring collections and continues to be into Fall. Colours have become a little smokier, knits in jacquard prints are all over and the appearance of fur hems have become more apparent. The gauzy gowns and flare cuts continue with Burberry Prorsum, Lanvin, Dries Van Noton and Chloe all making the ‘old’ new again. Take this trend into Fall by wearing your smock dresses with over-the-knee boots and a fedora hat, finished with a rock star-esque shearling coat.
Purple metallic jacquard brocades took over at Erdem as models stomped down the runway with three-quarter dresses thick with detailing, while Mary Katrantzou clashed tones of pink and red in the forms of fur and sequins to create in-your-face motifs. Dark romantic silhouettes met with copious amounts of lace and ruffles, and a hint of luxurious baroque is paired with leather accents, antique floral prints, burnout velvet and sheer layering — all clear signs that clashing motifs and interior brocades are a key print for Fall.
Avant Garde Tailoring
Fashion has gotten comfy and cosy as tailoring’s new proportions are oversized and asymmetric. Structured silhouettes are unravelled to suggest something more fluid and nonchalant, while keeping the air of tailoring. Think Stella McCartney’s draped hero blazers and Victoria Beckham’s wrap-waist trousers and woollen structured dresses. Pair with a structured ankle boot and simple jewellery for an androgynous, architectural look.
Clean Utility Of The Military
Smarten up your game and stand to attention as the khaki brigade returns. Black on black was the story for Alexander Wang, as outfits took on additional hardware with chains and chunky boots, while over at Balmain, Olivier Rousteing topped off every outfit with a dominant leather belt, no matter the flounce. Update the military look with powerful accessories alongside a delicate base material. Take notes from A.F. Vandevorst, who had models dressed in thigh-high lace-up boots that would make any grown man cry. #GirlPower